Friday 15 January 2016

Gladstone Pass to Roberts Pass

4th January 2015

This was supposed to be a "father/son" bonding experience, but the "son" component dropped out at the last moment.  In hindsight, probably not a bad thing.

I am admittedly a fair weather walker and tend to bail out when it looks like rain, but with my holidays ending up and a new job approaching I was aching to get out. Rain was definitely going to happen according to all reports so I just had to harden up.  I wasn't 100% sure about the wisdom of tackling Gladstone Pass in the wet, but in the end thought "bugger it" and head off anyway.  Packed the heavy rain jacket and strapped on my most destroyed pair of shoes and was off.

Off course I had to stop at Mountain High Pies at Wentworth Falls to buy dinner.  I should have a sponsorship by now.  Pies loaded in the trusty cold bag, it was adventure time.

I have tackled Gladstone Pass before ( January 2015 ), but it was a lovely warm summer's day back then.  The track down had been obscure and challenging enough that day, but not a problem.  Heat and humidity were the challenges that day.  This time it was bucketing down, and the Pass was a maze of small water courses, with lots of sludgy mud patches and slippery bits.  For the first time ever I wished I actually had a pair of sturdier walking shoes (and I was on leech alert the whole time, but didn't see a single one).  Lots of trees down that made for quite a few scrambles.  This Pass is not for the inexperienced walker after a nice stroll.

It was much darker than last time.  Heavy cloud cover and torrential rain made for a very dark and gloomy place.  Normally the tree canopy keeps out most of the wet, but today the trees were so loaded with water it was getting through in buckets, making it even trickier than last time to keep on the track.  More than a few times I stood with water running over my shoes, and water pouring down, looking for a sign of "where next"?  Occasional aluminum markers on trees were handy.  Someone with big boots had gone through recently, so thank you to that person who left big footprint puddles in several convenient locations.  Glad I'm not the only crazy person out in the wilds.  Also glad I didn't drag #1 son down here today.  I may have ended his walking days.  Especially when hanging off the rope line following the narrow ledge with a somewhat hair raising drop drop below.  Again, this Pass is not for the inexperienced walker after a nice stroll.

At some point I began thinking about where the left turn to Roberts Pass would be.  Last time along here I had not seen it, and couldn't even think where it might be  It was too wet to drag out the maps, but I knew that if I arrived at Dash's Cave that I had gone too far.  Sure enough, I duly arrived at Dash's Cave.  At least it was a chance to get out of the rain, eat, make an entry in the log book, and puzzle over the map.  After a while I realized that even if I couldn't see the turn off, that I could puzzle it out from the land form.  Gearing up again, I back tracked to where I knew it must be.  It seems I may be blind, because at the point where I was thinking "it must be here" I noticed two small cairns (not one, but two for the dummies) and two yellow markers (too make it unmissable to all but the completely hopeless) that I had clearly walked right past earlier (about 8.55 in the first video below).  As I wandered over to look closer I could suddenly see the track disappearing off away on the other side of the creek.  It takes me a while, but I get there eventually.

The track along to Roberts Pass was a breeze. The main problem being that I was wearing a pair of my son's old soccer shorts from High School that had little elastic left.  They were saturated and kept falling down.  I went off track for a while to look for the old coal mine.  I found it eventually and it gave me the creeps.  I cannot imagine in my wildest dreams (nightmares) just what it would have been like to come down here and work in that small space.

Back on the track to Roberts, the huge banks of fog would occasionally clear.  Mount Solitary would appear occasionally like some huge ghost ship, then disappear again. It looked close enough to touch.  The turn off up to Roberts Pass was clearly marked, and the metal stairs through the rock were an experience.  At the top I went out to Gladstone Lookout, and the cliff line was awesome.  Fingers of fog creeping up through cracks in the cliff line.  As I watched, a huge bank off fog slowly rose up blanketing everything.  There wasn't a sound to be heard.  The huge drop I was standing next too suddenly looked like a rug you could walk along.  An awesome moment.

The walk back to the car was a sloshy splash.  Arriving at the car I had to decide a course of events that would see me changed, vaguely dry, and not arrested for exposing myself in public.  Eventually I managed some half arsed nude yoga in the car.  I did discover that I had spare socks but no dry shoes, so I eventually ended up wandering Leura bare foot looking like a homeless man as I popped into Megalong Books.  Grabbed a couple more history/ walking books and it was a day well done. 

I managed to play with the video on my camera whilst trying not to trash it in the rain.  The "father/son" bonding experience occurred as he patiently tried to explain to Retro Daddy how to link avi clips.  Such a patient lad.  If you have the patience, my dodgy efforts are below.  The first one covers the wondrous Gladstone Pass. 


Gladstone Pass to Roberts Pass part 1

Gladstone Pass to Roberts Pass part 2

Gladstone Pass to Roberts Pass part 3

Friday 1 January 2016

Rambling in The Royal



To those about to read my garbled nonsense, this is not a “Rob and Cait” experience. The lovely Cait would kill me if I dragged her along on something as silly as this. She just patiently asked me to “write down where you are going so I can send help”. What a good wife. There was zero phone reception all day so a wise precaution.

My efforts to get the pack and walking shoes on in recent times have been frustratingly thwarted. Work, weather, wounds all playing their part. This time again, just when I had everything packed and ready to set out from Katoomba for a few days of pre-Christmas adventure in the Wild Dog mountains, a mystery bug laid me a bit low, my back gave way, then the weather produced apparently the highest December rainfall since dinosaurs roamed the earth, so probably good I hadn't set out.

This left me with only a brief gap between Christmas and New Years.

It always surprises me how and when ideas for a walk take hold, like an itch needing a scratch. Out of nowhere I had an urge to go exploring the Royal National Park. A quick gaze at a map (actually I have several maps of the RNP – you can never have too many maps.  Even a 1976 map from my school boy days).  A possible route leaped out at me. A tad ambitious, but I was sick of sitting on my butt, and time was running short before the holidays ended and a new job beginning. Now or never.

Left home at 7.15, parked at Audley at 8.30. Set off at 8.40. A dream start. What could go wrong !!  Only delay was waiting for a curious young child to bugger off so I could apply some lubricant to parts best left unseen.  It was going to be a hot day out there and chafing was not on my to do list.

This was a day combining a mix of everything. Lots of exploring new places, revisiting old favourites, meandering and taking photos, and some easy fire trails to get some running in as well. I started with a climb directly up from Audley towards Winifred Falls. I had never been along here before, and it was lovely. Some nice rock walls which always amaze me. The work done so long ago and so well, still standing. It always humbles me to think of the effort it must have taken to do this, so crazy bastards like me could go rambling about a hundred years later.


time to start running
Crossing Warumbul Road the track became open fire trail and time to do a bit of running to Winifred Falls. These were lovely, and I had a nice wander and scramble around. 
Winifred Falls

 
Returning to the track, I shortly crossed South West Arm creek and I was passed by a fellow who had been at the falls as well. He looked geared up for photography. As he tore past he asked if the track led to Anice Falls. At that point I thought it was, and mumbled a quick “I think so” and he powered off into the distance. Why do people listen to anything I say. For several reasons I am known as THAT GUY – one being “don't follow THAT GUY” as I am prone to head off in the wrong direction before sorting myself out. I hope Mr Photographer wised up eventually. My little voice in my head was getting louder telling me “you know you are going the wrong way, don't you”. I definitely was not going to start climbing a ridge anytime soon to reach a fire trail. I retraced my steps to Winifred Falls, started out again, and did some more wandering and scrambling around trying to pick up a trail.
South West Arm Creek crossing
I recrossed the creek once more, then noticed an erosion gully just off to the left which I now suspected was actualy the right way. Which it was, and I had a fairly gentle climb up to the Mt Bass Trail. Another wide trail, so time to start running. All gradually uphill, so a nice effort for a couple of km. Crossing Bundeena Drive, it was then a nice downhill trot to Little Marley.
I could have cut out Marley altogether and shortened my day, but I love the stretch between Marley and Wottamolla and I was travelling well. Passed a few walkers, was passed by a few motor bikes. I came across the side track to the Deer Pool which I hadn't planned on. Feeling good, I decided to go exploring and it was well worth it. A great detour. My old school days map has this as a camp site.  These days camping is forbidden - but what a great place to spend a night (stealth) camping.  I climbed back to the main trail and resumed choofing down to Marley, with Marley Lagoon appearing on the left.  For years I had thought that the Deer Pool and Marley Lagoon were the same. How wrong could I be.
Deer Pool





Marley Lagoon - not the Deer Pool obviously
From Marley to Wattamolla was all the reasons why The Coast Track is spectacular and I wanted to include this stretch. Cliffs, ocean views, crashing waves, eroded sandstone. 
 
Little Marley



track down to Wattamolla

A quick refill at Wattamolla (thousands of people), then off to Curracurrang. The heat was kicking in, and a geat place to stick the head under running water. Someone asked me “can you drink the water”? I was guzzling it down and filling my bottles, so I hope so. 

Curracurrang - why wouldn't you stick your head in ?
Curracurrang
Then off to Curracurrong and Eagle Rock, and more head cooling before heading off to cross the Curra Moors.  Loved the boardwalks along here.  Some parts of the Coast Track are severely eroded with just a bunch of boards randomly thrown down.  Not only are these boards useless after the rain (as they just disappear into the mud as many have discovered), they are actually slippery and dangerous; and they definitely do not have the "wow" factor of the boardwalks which I find kinda cool.


Curracurrong
Curracurrong
Eagle Rock
 At this point, despite having maps and a clear sense of where I was, I had a brain fade and missed a turn off. I'm pretty sure I recall where I went wrong, but not paying enough attention. I was using a NPWS tourist map which clearly stated “not for navigational purposes”, but I can't blame the map as it was 100% correct. Poor workmen...etc. When I hit Sir Bertram Stevens Drive I was already in the wrong place but convinced myself I wasn't.  After a hot road slog I hit Garie Road and realised I was off track and thought "oh no" (I believe what I thought was a little stronger, but this is a family show).

After working out where I had gone wrong (not hard as it was obvious), I began a long road bash back to where I needed to be. Not a lot of road shoulder along here, and a few presses into bushes were required. I don't know why people fuss about snakes – P plate drivers are way scarier.
This is what I was looking for.  Just wish I had found it sooner.
Eventually I hit the start of the Walumarra Track. Bliss. Another stretch to jog along for a few hot km, until the start of the single track down to Bola Creek. All through the park these large fire trails lead to beautiful little trails winding down to creeks and falls. The wander down to Bola Creek and onto Lady Carrington Drive was fantastic and I could imagine people having walked this stretch for thousands of years. A special place. More of those old stone steps and rock work I love so much as well. At the bottom, the few km walk along Bola Creek was easily one of the nicest I have ever done and would be a great walk with kids.  I do like to rate trails on their "Lord of the Rings" factor, and how likely it would be for a mystical creature to appear.  I give this section a solid 8/10 although the only mystical creature was a goanna exploding out of a pile of leaf litter and scaring the pants off me. 
down to Bola Creek



Bola Creek
Eventually I hit Lady Carrington Drive.  My 1976 map has this as "one way traffic only" and apparently it was open to cars as recently as 1984.  Amazing. The long day was beginning to hit. I had stretched out my pace and nutrition, but I really needed to have had a few more salty nibblies (I would have killed for some Twisties) and more sports drink to give me a big salty sweet lift. At least I had plenty of water and only about 9km to go.  No one was going to die, so  I toughened up and got to trotting along. A lot of nice improvement since last I came along here. It was finally cooling which was much appreciated.  I passed a very tired lady clad in the finest bike riding gear money could buy, pushing what looked like a new mountain bike.  I was tired but she looked shattered as she struggled to finish what was probably a good idea at the time.  With about 1km to go, it was time to relax and walk it in. Great to see so many families through the day enjoying this wonderful park, and Audley was still pumping at 4.30. I love getting away from it all, but I also love seeing these beautiful places being used and appreciated.  Obviously a few more rules and restrictions over time which don't please all, but possibly for the best.
Lady Carrington Drive
I arrived at the car at about 8 hours and 45 km after starting. Thank goodness for leaving clean clothes in the car because I stunk like a toilet. I just wish I had remembered some Twisties as well to make the day perfect.  Nonetheless it was an epically enjoyable adventure. Photos a bit average with a different camera, but cramping hip flexors will keep the memories fresh a little while longer yet.